Visiting the Loire Valley without a car

As a 100% parisian family, and accustomed to the city great transportation system, neither me nor my wife have a car or a driving license, and we are also not very comfortable with bikes. Visiting some “remote” (i.e not really accessible via public transports) can be a challenge, as we have to synchronize our schedules with the few buses, trains, and opening hours when visiting different places.

Initial plans

We waited for public holidays (in April / May) to go to Loire Valley, as it gave us a few more days, but some castles can be visited in a single day, or over a weekend without a problem. To avoid the weekend rush, we opted to start on a monday on a 4 to 5 days trip, so to end on a thursday or friday.

Choosing what to visit

Châteaux of the Loire Valley map

Châteaux of the Loire Valley map (Wikipedia)

We wanted to visit a mix of Loire castles and other things. Castle candidates where (yes, a lot):

The Blois Tourist Office have a few Pass châteaux to have some discount if you plan on visiting a few of them, like us. Most tickets are valid for the whole year, except for Chenonceau, where you have to shedule a time in advance.

Adding to that, we also wanted to spend some time in a few cities:

And for our daugther, a detour to the local Zoo de Beauval.

Transportation

Most of Centre-Val de Loire transportation is handled by Rémi. They offer some “all-inclusive” pass (Rémi Découverte) for 2 or 3 day on their network, some of them leaving from Ile-de-France (so Paris), via Rémi Découverte +. Be careful that it only works on transports (bus and trains) operated by Rémi, that means that other trains operated by Ouigo, or Inoui are not included in this package.

For buses, Rémi have regular lines, as well as the Navette Chateaux leaving from Blois and going through a few castles.

Even if there are not a lot of buses, their schedule is aligned with train arrivals (usually from Paris), so it is quite convenient.

There are also some buses leaving from Paris to Blois, but with the Rémi pass and train schedules, it was less convenient.

Schedule

Based on the above, we settled on the following schedule (valid for end of April 2023).

  • Monday: Chambord and Blois castles
    • 7:37: departure from Gare d’Austerlitz, arrival to Blois at 9:00
    • 9h15: bus to Chambord castle via the Navette Châteaux
    • 13h10: back to Blois with the Rémi line 2. The bus stop is the same
    • afternoon: visiting Blois castle
    • stay at Blois for the night
  • Tuesday: Beauval Zoo
    • 9:15: bus from Blois train station to the Zoo, arrival at 10:15
    • 17:20: back to Blois with the same bus, arrival at 18:20
    • stay at Blois for the night
  • Wednesday: Chenonceau castle and Tours
    • 8:55: train leaving from Blois to Chenonceau (change at Saint-Pierre-des-Corps), arrival at 9:55, scheduled to enter the castle at 10:15
    • 13:07: train to Tours to visit the city
    • afternoon / evening: train to Angers, there are trains scheduled regularly
    • stay at Angers for the night
  • Thursday: Angers and its castle
    • Leisurely (compared to the previous days) visit Angers and its castle, including the famous Apocalypse Tapestry
    • End of aternoon: back to Paris

The trip was a bit exhausting (better travel light), but we managed to pack everything in 4 days.

Resources

Sum up of above resources I really used: